Who cast that first fateful tomato that started the La Tomatina revolution? The reality is no one knows. Maybe it was an anti-Franco rebellion, or a carnival that got out of hand. According to the most popular version of the story, during the 1945 festival of Los Gigantes (a giant paper mâché puppet parade), locals were looking to stage a brawl to get some attention. They happened upon a vegetable cart nearby and started hurling ripe tomatoes. Innocent onlookers got involved until the scene escalated into a massive melee of flying fruit. The instigators had to repay the tomato vendors, but that didn't stop the recurrence of more tomato fights—and the birth of a new tradition.
Fearful of an unruly escalation, authorities enacted, relaxed, and then reinstated a series of bans in the 1950s. In 1951, locals who defied the law were imprisoned until public outcry called for their release. The most famous effrontery to the tomato bans happened in 1957 when proponents held a mock tomato funeral complete with a coffin and procession. After 1957, the local government decided to roll with the punches, set a few rules in place, and embraced the wacky tradition.
Though the tomatoes take center stage, a week of festivities lead up to the final showdown. It's a celebration of Buñol's patron saints, the Virgin Mary and St. Louis Bertrand, with street parades, music, and fireworks in joyous Spanish fashion. To build up your strength for the impending brawl, an epic paella is served on the eve of the battle, showcasing an iconic Valencian dish of rice, seafood, saffron, and olive oil.
Today, this unfettered festival has some measure of order. Organizers have gone so far as to cultivate a special variety of unpalatable tomatoes just for the annual event. Festivities kick off around 10 a.m. when participants race to grab a ham fixed atop a greasy pole. Onlookers hose the scramblers with water while singing and dancing in the streets. When the church bell strikes noon, trucks packed with tomatoes roll into town, while chants of "To-ma-te, to-ma-te!" reach a crescendo.
Then, with the firing of a water cannon, the main event begins. That's the green light for crushing and launching tomatoes in all-out attacks against fellow participants. Long distance tomato lobbers, point-blank assassins, and medium range hook shots. Whatever your technique, by the time it's over, you will look (and feel) quite different. Nearly an hour later, tomato-soaked bombers are left to play in a sea of squishy street salsa with little left resembling a tomato to be found. A second cannon shot signals the end of the battle. | Tko je bacio onu prvu sudbonosnu rajčicu koja je pokrenula revoluciju La Tomatinu? Činjenica je da nitko ne zna. Možda je to bila antifrankistička pobuna, a možda samo karneval koji se oteo kontroli. Prema najpopularnijoj verziji priče, mještani su 1945. tijekom Los Gigantes festivala (parade divovskih lutaka od papirmašea) pokušavali napraviti gužvu radi pridobivanja pozornosti. Putem su naišli na obližnji štand s povrćem i počeli bacati zrele rajčice. Nevini promatrači su se priključivali, sve dok stvar nije eskalirala u ogromnu gužvu letećeg voća. Začetnici su prodavačima rajčica morali nadoknaditi gubitak, ali to nije spriječilo ponovnu pojavu novih borbi rajčicama – i rođenje nove tradicije. Strahujući od eskalacije neposluha, vlasti su 1950-ih donijele, ublažile, a zatim ponovno stavile na snagu niz zabrana. Mještani koji su se protivili zakonu su 1951. godine bili zatvoreni sve dok javnim prosvjedima nije zatraženo njihovo oslobođenje. Najpoznatija drskost po pitanju zabrana se odigrala 1957. godine, kada su zagovornici održali tobožnji sprovod rajčice s lijesom i procesijom. Lokalna je vlast nakon 1957. odlučila otrpjeti udarce te je postavila nekoliko pravila i prihvatila čudnovatu tradiciju. Iako su rajčice u središtu pozornosti, konačnom obračunu prethodi tjedan svečanosti. To je slavljenje bunjolskih svetaca zaštitnika, Djevice Marije i svetog Luje Bertrana, kroz ulične parade, glazbu te vatromet u veselom španjolskom stilu. Radi prikupljanja snage za nadolazeću gužvu se večer prije bitke poslužuje epska paelja kojom se predstavlja kultno valencijansko jelo s rižom, morskim plodovima, šafranom i maslinovim uljem. Danas ovaj nesputani festival ipak ima nekakav red. Organizatori su otišli toliko daleko da su kultivirali posebnu sortu neukusnih rajčica samo radi ovog godišnjeg događaja. Svečanosti započinju oko deset sati prijepodne natjecanjem sudionika u dohvaćanju šunke koja se nalazi na vrhu nauljene motke. Gledatelji natjecatelje polijevaju vodom te pjevaju i plešu na ulicama. Nakon što crkveno zvono odzvoni podne u grad dolaze kamioni natovareni rajčicama, a povici „To-ma-te, to-ma-te!“ dosežu krešendo. Zatim, ispaljivanjem iz vodenog topa, započinje glavni događaj. To je zeleno svjetlo za gnječenje i bacanje rajčica u bezrezervnim napadima na ostale sudionike. Dalekometni bacači rajčica, atentatori iz neposredne blizine, te hici srednjeg dometa. Kakva god bila vaša tehnika, na kraju svega ćete izgledati (i osjećati se) prilično drugačije. Gotovo sat vremena kasnije se bombaši natopljeni rajčicama igraju u moru gnjecave ulične šalše, uz malo toga što bi sličilo na rajčicu. Novo ispaljivanje iz topa označava kraj bitke. |